A few weeks back my wife Lindsey and I decided to have a date night and only went to places we had never visited before. We had heard about a wine bar that we needed to check out — thank you Erin Smith, you were right! The name of the place is The Library. It’s a quaint little spot on Long Point Road just down the street from our friends at Feges BBQ (hence, the suggestion from Erin, who owns Feges BBQ with her husband Patrick Feges).
This place is about as legit as a wine bar gets — the list is awesome. The depth of varietals, producers, and vintages is quite impressive, and the staff is about as nice and knowledgeable as they come.
It took me quite a while to narrow down our choices, but we settled on a bottle of Maison Harbor Meursault 1er Cru “Blagny” 2018. It was absolutely delicious. This wine comes from a producer that I am not familiar with, but that’s okay. Different sections on the list highlight some of the staff’s favorite producers.
“Our ‘featured producers’ are chosen based on the ridiculously subjective criteria of producing wines that are, in our humble opinion, ‘soulful,’” explains general manager Brennan Harmeier. “They produce distinctive wines that tell a story no one else is telling and contribute an important chapter in the historical context of a region. These are wines that move us, and we think they have the ability to make a connection with others, too. Subjective? Yes, but wine can do that to you.”
The list is heavy on Old World selections which means a large collection of European wines from France, Italy, Spain, Germany, Austria and others. Price points are truly fantastic — you can go in and spend anywhere from $35 to whatever your heart and budget desires.
Why was I so impressed? I feel like this list was built for me, because so many of the older and really good vintages are available for very fair prices. They have vintages that date back to the ’60s, which means you can try wines that are 40-50+ years old. I like to drink stuff that has some age on it, 10-20 years, and this list is chock full of choices.
Older white and red Burgundy, Bordeaux, Barolo, domestic Cabernet Sauvignon, and vintage Champagnes are all over the place in this small spot in a strip center on Long Point next to a hair salon across the street from a carniceria. This is Houston, and I’m here for it!
Brennan and owner Jason Eubanks worked for two years before The Library opened to build up their inventory. It’s become a favorite of wine professionals — thanks again, Erin — looking for rare or unusual bottles.
“It is wonderful to be able to share our wines with our guests and give them the opportunity to purchase vintage wines that they normally wouldn’t have access to unless they found themselves in a high end steak house or part of some waitlisted wine club where people are fighting tooth and nail to get their hands on a library release,” Harmeier said. “Honestly, it is hard to choose just one that I am looking forward to opening for our guests. But I have always favored older Champagne, and we do have a 1985 Krug that I wouldn’t mind having the opportunity to taste.”
Brennan’s Three Favorite Wines on the List:
- 2002 Ployez-Jacquemart “Liesse d’Harbonville” Brut. “I normally don’t go to Ployez as my go-to Champagne, but this particular wine is SINGING. I honestly want to hold one in storage for another 10 years and see where it goes.”
- 2017 Arnaud Lambert Saumur “Clos de l’Etoile.” “Such a fabulous producer in the Loire, and I don’t feel like enough exposure in our city is given to the wonderful red wines of this region. I could honestly go the rest of my life by just drinking the red wines from Saumur and Chinon.”
- 2017 Von Winning Ruppertsberger Reiterpfad Riesling Trocken. “I feel like if you ask any sommelier what their favorite white wine is, they will all say Riesling. But there is a reason for that. The complexity of this particular one is just top tier. One you can sip on for hours and the only time you will be disappointed is when you pour out the last drop.”
Why Long Point? Brennan says that owners Jason and Laurie Eubanks are longtime residents of the Spring Branch neighborhood and wanted to open a wine bar that was both close to home and the kind of place they’d want to go themselves. A deep wine list with a heavy emphasis on the Old World, older vintages, friendly and knowledgeable service, great glassware, reasonable pricing, and a casual environment were all important details. Equally important was that The Library be a comfortable and welcoming neighborhood spot for Spring Branch locals who wanted a great glass of wine, regardless of price point.
Long Point has very good visibility for almost every Spring Branch resident. New restaurants are popping up with some regularity that are also driving people to Long Point who may have previously gone to other neighborhoods for a night out.
When you leave make sure you pop in a few doors down to the Loose Cannon and say hello to little Bobbie McGee, the bar kitty, and have a frozen Pina Colada or any other of your favorite Tiki drinks. It’s an old school bar that I wish was next door to our house.
Stop by Loose Cannon to say hi to Bobbie McGee.Photo by Chris Shepherd
—–
What other hidden gems should our Wine Guy visit? Tell Chris via email at [email protected].
Chris Shepherd won a James Beard Award for Best Chef: Southwest in 2014. The Southern Smoke Foundation, a nonprofit he co-founded with his wife Lindsey Brown, has distributed more than $11 million to hospitality workers in crisis through its Emergency Relief Fund. Catch his TV show, Eat Like a Local, every Saturday at 10 am on KPRC Channel 2.